It’s officially Sint-Eustache, but Statia for locals – whatever you call it, this lush Dutch Caribbean the island has no name recognition. After all, it’s not a celebrity hideaway or white-sand beach destination, and only a handful of cruise ships dock there each year. But what this small volcanic island with a turbulent colonial past lacks in glamor and fame, it more than makes up for with top-notch hotels. diving and some seriously awesome hikes. Oh yes, he finally has his first luxury hotel.
Golden Rock Dive & Nature Resort is the passion project of Dutch entrepreneur Peter Barnhoorn, former CEO of a fair trade rose distributor. It quietly opened its sprawling eco-resort on the island’s Atlantic coast in late 2021 and has continued to add new amenities for outdoor-loving travelers, from a PADI dive center to paddle tennis and pickleball courts. A movie theater is expected to open there later this year.
Statia is only 8.1 square miles, but has played an outsized role in history. The land was sighted by Christopher Columbus in 1493 and has changed hands more than 20 times between European nations. In the 17th century it was under Dutch rule and operated as a major hub and duty-free port for the transatlantic slave trade. In 1776, Statia became the first foreign government to recognize American independence by returning an artillery salvo from the brig Andrew Doria. At that time, the prosperous island was nicknamed Golden Rock.
Accessible by a dirt road without traffic lights, the station of the same name is a bright and contemporary oasis. The property sits at the base of the Quill, a 2,000-foot dormant volcano, and spans more than 40 acres sloping down to the Atlantic coast. A hop-on hop-off shuttle transports guests through the grounds, filled with hummingbirds and butterflies and beautifully landscaped with tropical plants and trees. On a clear day, the outlines of St. Barthélemy and St. Kitts are visible in the distance.
Guests choose between two on-site restaurants, considered by locals to be the best on the island. Breeze serves flavorful reef and beef, from a succulent whole lobster with herb butter to a rib-eye steak. Bobbie’s Beach Club is known for its sushi, pizza and barbecue. Both offer kids’ menus with five options for picky eaters.
Accommodation is elegant, spacious and simple, in the modern Dutch tradition. Each of the 70 rooms, suites, villas and cottages offers ocean and garden views, a furnished outdoor terrace or balcony and comfortable Swiss Sense king-size beds and linens. However, you probably won’t spend much time indoors with so many activities on campus: a tennis and basketball court, a gym, and a mini golf course are among them. As for the beaches, most visitors don’t bother going there, because the Atlantic coast has dangerous surf, while the Caribbean coast, with black sand, called Oranje, is not particularly attractive.
Since there are no shops or restaurants to speak of on the island, hiking, snorkeling, and scuba diving are its biggest draws. Many trails wind through the national park, but a hike to Quill Rim for spectacular panoramic views of the crater’s dense rainforest and valley is a must. The trail is of medium to difficult difficulty, with fixed ropes for the steep and slippery parts of the summit, and takes a few hours. Start early to beat the heat.
The Golden Rock Dive Center is located at the base of the property and has its own artificial lagoon fed by the ocean, considered the largest in the Caribbean. A sunken school bus lies 30 feet underground, simulating a wreck. Guests can take diving lessons or refresher courses in the well, then visit 36 designated dive sites in the preserved and protected St. Eustatius National Marine Park.
Take the 327-foot-long (100-foot-deep) Charles L. Brown, a decommissioned cable ship that was purposely sunk in 2003. Not only can divers explore the ship’s interior, but the area is teeming with a an incredible variety of marine life, from eagle rays and trevally to Caribbean reef sharks. The nursing station (depth of 63 feet), meanwhile, is home to several 18th- and 19th-century anchors – a common artifact here – as well as colorful lettuce sea slugs and nurse sharks.
The most valuable underwater discovery is a blue pearlonce used as currency to pay for African slaves, tobacco, cotton and rum. Slaves who worked on the island’s plantations also purchased goods and services with them. According to the local tourist office, pearls are the only historical object allowed to leave the island.
Legend has it that the blue pearl cannot be found; he finds you. And when it does, you’re destined to return to this laid-back island again and again.
Rooms at Golden Rock Dive & Nature Resort from $475 per night including breakfast